Pen Jacqueline Ross LiebermanFreelance Writer / Editor
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May 21, 2007
Wine, Food, and Life: Things I learned in Italy
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Fountain in Italy On a recent trip to Italy that included Florence and Rome, I learned a few lessons about wine, food and life.
 
1. Slow down and relax. Meals in Italy aren’t about refueling as fast as possible—they are about enjoying the food, enjoying the
wine and, especially, enjoying the company. Likewise, servers here don’t rush you to order, eat and get out. For a multi-tasking American like myself, who often eats lunch and types at the same time, this can be a difficult concept to swallow. Yet once I did, I found myself loving the chance to linger over something as simple as a brick-oven pizza and a glass of Pinot Grigio. Which leads me to my next point:
 
2. Yes, you can—and should—have wine with lunch. Italians certainly do. Again, this requires sitting still for more than five minutes—most of us aren’t about to gulp down a glass of Chianti the way we might chug a soda. Drinking wine is a ritual that requires taking one’s time and automatically induces relaxation, so you can forget furiously dashing off to whatever is next on your “must-see” list—you’re much more likely to stroll.
 
3. While you’re sipping that glass of wine, enjoy the moment. I drank some wines in Italy that, in all likelihood, I will never experience again. So many Italian wines are artisan products; they differ from year to year and barrel to barrel. Besides—even if I could find that exact wine again, it wouldn’t be with that meal, in that setting.
 
4. Yes, there are some expensive wines that can only be described as phenomenal. But wine does not need to be expensive to be good. One evening in Rome, my husband and I meandered into a rustic restaurant called Il Barrocao and asked for a liter of the house white. Paired with some amazing local specialties that included a dish of simply grilled seafood, the crisp, dry wine was one of the most enjoyable we’ve ever had.

May 11, 2007
At New York’s Artisanal Bistro, Wine and Cheese Match Perfectly
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro On your next trip to New York City, head over to Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro for an unforgettable pairing of wine and cheese—the bustling, often noisy grand café excels at both.

Among a list of excellent French bistro fare, the menu offers 11 cheese flights paired with wines, plus one paired with beers, for $25 each. Each is thoughtfully combined to show off the best elements of both the cheeses and the wines.
 
Take, for example, the Aromatic Trio: Stanser Schafchas (a sheep’s milk cheese from Switzerland), Red Haw (a cow’s milk cheese from California) and Epoisses (a cow’s milk cheese from France) are matched with 2005 Riesling Kabinett Selbach Pierporter Michelsberg, 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba Scarzello and 2005 Montes “Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon. The Ancient Tradition offers Spain’s famous Manchego (sheep’s milk cheese), Switzerland’s Sbriz (cow’s milk cheese) and France’s Roquefort (sheep’s milk cheese) with 2002 Robert Stemmler Pinot Noir, 2002 Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Avignonesi and 2002 Chateau Ducasse Sauternes.
 
In the mood for something a little different? Try the Unusual Ones: Cabecou Schnaps (a goat’s milk cheese from France), Robiola la Rossa (an Italian cheese made from a blend of sheep’s and cow’s milk) and Percorino Tartufo (a sheep’s milk cheese from Italy) paired combined with 2003 Pinot Gris Domaine Armand Hurst, 2004 Pinot Noir Logan “Sleepy Hollow” and 2000 Barbaresco “Valeirano” Ada Nada.
 
Want to put together your own pairings? You’ve got your work cut out for you, as you can choose from up to 160 wines by the glass and more than 250 varieties of cheese. Maybe when I’ve run out of flights to try, I’ll put together my own. In the meantime, I think I’ll just sit back and let the experts do the job they do so well.


May 02, 2007
The Wines of Alto Adige, Italy
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
On the southern side of the Alps lies Italy’s Alto Adige region, also known as Sudtirol. Here, the locals speak German and wine making is a 3,000-year-old tradition. Visiting the area may not be as simple as booking a vacation in Napa,
Alto Adige Area Map but you'll get a real feel for how this European community thrives from its connections to vinticulture.
 

Vineyards range from 750 feet to 3,250 feet above sea level, so it’s no wonder the region is home to so many diverse wines. What is really remarkable is that 95 percent of the bottles from this region are designated D.O.C., which means they can only be made in this region. (Other areas may try to duplicate these wines,

but they must do so under another name.) Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio are the dominating whites here, although Sauvignon Blanc is becoming increasingly popular. You’ll also find Riesling, Moscato Giallo and a few lesser-known varietals: Sylvaner (a light, fresh wine with a slight scent of hay); Muller-Thurgau (pale and lightly aromatic); Kerner (spicy, dry, with a hint of Muscat); and Veltiner (fresh and fruity, with a light floral, herby scent).

Mountain View

Perhaps because I love aromatic wines, my favorite white here is the Gewurztraminer, which tends to be drier than in other regions, making it a wonderful match for all kinds of food. Andriano Cantina’s 2005 Tor di Lupo Gewurztraminer is a terrific example.

In reds, the native Schiava (a.k.a. Vernatsch) black grape variety accounts for nearly a third of the total vineyard area. Schiava wines can range from pale red to ruby color and often have a lovely marzipan finish.

Another native grape, Lagrein, is also big here and is used to created rich, rustic, full-bodied wines, such as Laimburg Province Winery's 2003 Barbagol Lagrein Riserva. You’ll also see some wonderful examples of the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir varietals.

Of dessert wines, the most unusual (and my personal favorite) is Moscato Rosa, made from the rare, red Moscato grape. I recommend trying Abbazia Di Novacella’s 2005 Praepositus Moscato Rosa. Much like Alto Adige itself, this light-red wine is as beautiful to look at is it is complex and delicious. For more information about the region and its wineries, visit www.altoadigewines.com.

April 18, 2007
Summer Wine Festivals - Monterey, Aspen, Brisbane and Others!
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Ah, summer—will it ever arrive? It may seem like spring has just sprung, but it’s never too early to get your tickets for these wonderful summer wine festivals.
 
The Temecula Valley Balloon and Wine Festival, Winchester, California, June 1-3: The area is known for its growing climate similar to the great wine regions of the South of France, and this year’s lakeside festival will showcase over 20 local wineries. Book a hot air balloon ride ahead of time to guarantee a romantic ride that includes a bird’s eye view of nearby vineyards.
Vintage Virginia Vintage Virginia Wine Festival, Centreville, Virginia, June 2-3: Over 50 of the state’s prominent wineries will pour over 350 selections. Seminars will take place in tents all weekend where, among other subjects, you can learn about Virginia’s long history of winemaking. The family-friendly event also offers a kids’ area with games, activities and performers to keep the little ones amused.
 
The Monterey Wine & Fine Living Festival, Monterey, California, June 7- 9: Over 200 California wineries—including Korbel Champagne Cellars and Ventana Vineyards—will pour more than

800 wines at this highly educational event that includes wine seminars, cooking demonstrations and a live wine auction.
 
Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colorado, June 15-17: Food & Wine magazine hosts this all-star, all-out festival that includes such speakers as Mark Oldman, Jacques Pepin and Mario Batali. Cooking demonstrations, wine seminars and reserve tastings are all on the menu.

Telluride

Telluride Wine Festival, Telluride, Colorado, June 28-July 1: This international wine festival includes a celebration of wines from Spain, a reserve tasting of the wines of Bordeaux, seminars and wine dinners and lunches prepared by award-winning chefs. While you’re there, enjoy the mountain village’s galleries, shops and gorgeous scenery.

Brisbane Fine Wine Festival, Brisbane City, Australia, July 6- 8: It’s winter in Australia, but you’ll still get a warm welcome from Australian winemakers, who will be pouring over 600 wines from around the country. And while some of the wineries have silly-sounding names like Lillypilly Wines and Platypus Lane, this is serious as well as fun: Master classes on such subjects as Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon and a Pinot Noir “taste off” are bound to fill up fast.
 
Finger Lakes Wine Festival, Watkins Glen, New York, July 20-22: The party kicks off with an evening of fireworks, togas and New York state wines from local wineries like Willow Creek and Hickory Hollow Wine Cellars. The weekend continues with seminars, culinary demonstrations and a tasters’ banquet.
 
Swiss Wine Festival, Vevay, Indiana, August 23-26: Celebrate Switzerland County’s cultural heritage at this family-friendly festival that includes a wine pavilion featuring local wineries, a grand parade and a grape-stomping competition.


April 05, 2007
Redwood Creek Campfire Contest - Wines for the Mountaintop
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Redwood Creek As much as I love the city life and its fine dining, I also consider myself to be an outdoorsy kind of gal. Perhaps that’s why so many of my vacations involve hiking, sleeping in lean-tos and cooking over a fire pit in places like New Jersey’s Stokes State Forest and the Upper Peninsula of Michigan’s Van Riper State Park. And sure, I love hot dogs and toasted marshmallows. But after a day in the woods, there’s nothing like slow-cooked beef stew with a mellow Merlot, or pan-fried trout with a good, acidic Sauvignon Blanc.

Apparently, the folks at Redwood Creek Wines agree with me. The California-based winery, whose vineyards are located in the Central Valley between the Pacific coast and the Sierra Mountains, claims that their bottles are better suited for a mountaintop than a tabletop.
 
And so, they’ve issued a challenge: From now until May 15, you can enter the Redwood Creek Campfire Classic cookout contest. Just log on to RedwoodCreek.com and enter your unique campfire recipe, paired with one of the Redwood Creek wines. On June 21, five finalists will be brought to New York City to prepare their gourmet recipes for a chance to win the $10,000 grand prize plus a $5,000 donation to their favorite national park. The public will also be invited to cast their votes online for the winner of the $1,000 People’s Choice Award.
 
In the meantime, Redwood Creek’s website offers some inspirational recipes from chef Bob Blumer (a.k.a. the Surreal Gourmet). And if you must have hot dogs, may I suggest a glass of Pinot Noir to go with that?


March 27, 2007
Wining and Dining with Companions
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 

When traveling with a group—either for business or pleasure—dining together is inevitable. Because I’m known as “the one who likes wine,” the wine menu often winds up in my hands. This can be tricky. Usually I’m expected to decide before we’ve even seen the menu, so guessing what everyone will order becomes part of the equation. Even if I do know what everyone is getting, chances are it will all taste very different. So I’ve come up with a few rules for mass-wine pairings.
 
1. If the group is large enough, order two bottles—one red, one white. The old rule that you should only drink red wine with red meat and white wine with fish and poultry doesn’t really hold true, but your some of your dinner companions probably still believe in it. And even if they are open-minded enough to try a red with their snapper, some people prefer one color to the other.
 
2. “When you don’t know, order Pinot.” Pinot Noir is light, crisp, and pretty much universally liked. It’s also one of those wines that goes with everything, so you're safe if somebody at the table orders the curried lobster while someone else gets steak topped with garlic butter.
 
3. Highly flavored ethnic foods tend to go well with certain types of wine. For instance, I like to order Riesling with Chinese—the subtly sweet wine stands up to the bit of sweetness in most Chinese dishes while it cools the spice. Riesling also works well with Indian and Thai coconut curry dishes for the same reasons. If the cuisine tends to be more spicy/herby, like Jamaican, I tend to go with an oaky Chardonnay. Keep in mind that lighter wines work better with spicy food—spicy wines usually clash with it.
 
4. Finally, don’t panic if you can’t figure out the perfect match. No meal has ever been ruined because the wine didn’t match the food. No matter what you choose, food always tastes better with wine and vice versa, so just order, smile, and enjoy the fact that your travel companions are bound to think you know more than they do, even if you don’t.


March 14, 2007
Sake, Demystified
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Japanese rice wine—called sake, or sometimes nihonshu—is increasing in popularity, and not just at sushi bars. Whether you’re visiting a traditional Japanese restaurant in Tokyo or sitting down for Asian fusion at Ruby Foo’s in New York City, someone is bound to hand you a long list of sakes to choose from.
Like any wine list, it helps to have a knowledgeable waiter, but the labels offer many clues as to what each one is like. First, take a look at the sake’s “meter value,” or nihonshu-do. This refers to how dry or sweet the sake is. A value above two is considered dry, while anything below two is considered sweet. Seimaibuai refers to the degree to which the rice used to make the sake is polished. The more polished the rice, the more “premium” the sake is considered to be. A higher percentage means that more of the grain of rice is left, so a lower percentage is considered better quality. Also note the level of acidity—a level of two or below is considered good quality. Other helpful terms include: futsushu—table sake koshu—aged at least three years namazake—unpasteurized nihonshu—sake made in Japan seishu—refined nigorizake—coarsely filtered,
Sake leaving tiny bits of rice that give the sake a shimmery appearance taruzake—aged in cedar casks.
 
If all this seems a bit daunting, just remember: When in doubt, order a sake that is served chilled. While hot sake can be very nice on a cool day, the good ones are almost always served cold. And if you really want to look like you know what you’re doing, consider this bit of Japanese etiquette: It’s considered polite to pour your neighbor’s drink, and for your neighbor to pour for you. That’s why the cups are so small. The more opportunities you

have to pour a glass for someone else, the more friendly and polite you have the opportunity to be. If you find yourself low on sake, simply lift your glass to allow someone else to pour for you.


February 27 , 2007
"Hidden" winery in Napa Valley
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Cakebread Cellars Visiting Napa Valley? It’s easy to drive past the small Cakebread Cellars winery, but it sure would be a shame. The grounds are gorgeous, the staff is wise, and the wine is excellent. Tours and tastings are designed for small groups, so guides have plenty of time to answer your questions. Call in advance to book your appointment (800-588-0298). There are several options to consider:
 
Tour and tasting, 10:30 am, daily. $10. Their knowledgeable staff

will explain the history of Napa Valley wines while leading you through the grounds. Then you’ll go inside to see how the grapes are made into wine, stored, and bottled. Afterward, it’s on to the tasting room to try and compare favorites like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot. You may also try a blend, like their Rubaiyat, made from Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Zinfandel—a juicy, slightly spicy wine with notes of cherries and vanilla.
 
Tastings, 10 am to 4 pm, daily. $10. This is the abbreviated version—a great way to try their wines and learn a bit about the family’s vineyards when you’ve got a lot of places to visit and not too much time.
 
Food and wine pairing, 11 am, Thursdays and Fridays. $20. The name may be purely coincidental, but Cakebread wines are known throughout the restaurant industry as being terrific with food. (One reason you’ll see Cakebread more on wine lists than in stores.) You’ll get a quick tour of the winery, then sit down to enjoy seasonal foods made with fresh ingredients from the Cakebread garden and learn some helpful tricks for pairing food with wine.
 
Sensory evaluation experience, 10 am, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. $20. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or totally clueless, everyone can learn something from this 90-minute tasting, designed to teach visitors about how to sniff, taste and evaluate wines.


February 05 , 2007
Coming soon—wine, food and fun in Washington, D.C.
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 
Festival Now’s the time to get your tickets for the 8th annual Washington D.C. International Wine and Food Festival, which will take place March 9 through 11. Whether you consider yourself a seasoned oenophile or a beginner, this event is not to be missed. It’s very

telling that “wine” comes before “food” in the title--indeed, while amazing food will be a big part of the experience, it’s the wines that take center stage. The activities kick off Friday night with the Grand Cru Wine Lounge Opening Night and Party, where munchies made by top local chefs will be paired with great vintages, and prominent wine experts will be on hand to explain what you’re drinking. ($150 in advance, $180 after March 2.)

Grand tastings will be held Saturday from 3 pm to 7 pm and Sunday from 2 pm to 6 pm, where more than 280 wineries from around the world will pour samples of over 1,100 wines. If there’s a style you’ve always wanted to try, chances are you’ll find it here. More delectable nibbles will be served. ($65 for a one-day pass in advance, $80 after March 2. Or $85 for a two-day pass in advance, $100 after March 2.)

Want to gain more in-depth knowledge? Guided tastings and seminars will take place all weekend. For example, you can learn about Petite Sirahs with PS I Love You (the advocacy group for varietal), discover the changing face of Champagne with Suzanne McGrath of WineReviewOnline.com, explore varietal ports like “Zinful Delight” paired with chocolate and cheese with David Hunt of Hunt Cellars, or brush up on your basics with a crash course in wine appreciation hosted by wine columnist Leslie Sbrocco. (Prices vary.)

Got more than a weekend to spend? On Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday before the big event, top local restaurants will participate in International Wine and Food Festival Week, so you can see Washington, D.C., during the day and enjoy a series of wine dinners at night.


January 22, 2007
At Bern's Steak House in Tampa - 6900 Wines to Choose!
Posted by Jackie Lieberman
 

When it comes to wine lists, it’s nice to have choices other than “Merlot or Chardonnay?” So I was thrilled when I made the trip to Bern’s Steak House in Tampa, Florida. Its wine collection is the largest of any restaurant in the world, with 6,900 labels to choose from, 200 of which are available by the glass. As soon as we were seated, I knew I had a tough decision to make. The wine list had the heft of a hardback novel. I might have read it all night—it’s interesting enough—if not for the helpful staff, who excel at finding a wine to match your palate as well as your plate. (But be sure to tell them you’re serious about your vino—when I asked for “something I haven’t tried before,” our waiter’s first suggestion was a red zinfandel.) In the end, the four of us at our table each chose a different wine by the glass to sip and share, allowing for far more tasting opportunities than a single bottle. The wine-loving food was simple and exquisite, focusing classic preparations of steak and seafood, with seasonal vegetables grown on their own organic farm and sprouts grown right in their kitchen. I ordered the Chateaubriand topped with garlic butter, and I wasn’t disappointed. After dinner, guests are offered a tour of the kitchen and on-site wine cellar. (A much larger storage facility across the street holds most of their collection). Don’t miss it. I almost regretted my steak when I saw just how fresh the fish were—any that weren’t under the broiler were still swimming in a gigantic tank. Ah, well. Next time, I thought. Then it was upstairs to the dessert room, with its cozy private booths and impossible-to-resist dessert menu, complete with another book of dessert wines and specialty drinks you won’t want to miss. A full stomach meant splitting the luscious chocolate soufflé and a glass of port with my husband. With so many choices and only so much one can eat and drink in an evening, I know I’ll be back for more.

 

 
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